Installation:

     The first step in any watercooling kit install is to thoroughly read through the manual.   Thank goodness that in this case, the manual is full color and well illustrated.  The manual does do a pretty good job, however, I have a few tricks up my sleeve that should help the install process go smoother. 

     Now, a note about this particular installation.   The H20-120 Compact is designed for a standard ATX tower case; which ultimately means that if you are using a case that does not fit this description, some additional modding may be required.   The case I will use for this install is the Danger Den Water Box Plus, which has a very different layout than most cases.  I will note for you cube users out there exactly what I needed to do to complete the install. 

     The next step in the install is to prep your system.  For socket 775 users, this means installing the backplate behind the motherboard.   For AMD users, you will need to skip to the end of the manual and install the AMD bracket. 

     To change the bracket, the first thing we will need to do is remove the copper base.  This is done by removing the four screws that are on the corners.

     Once the screws are removed, the copper plate should pop out.  This also gives us a good opportunity to look at the inside of the block.  The pins above are the channels through which the water flows. 

     Next, we will need to remove the O-ring that forms the square shaped seal around the block.  After that, it is necessary to unscrew two more screws to remove the bracket from the pump. 

Once the bracket is removed, there are two more O-rings that need to be removed. 

     Once the O-rings are removed, they need to be installed onto the AMD bracket.  It is very important that all three O-rings are securely installed.   At this point, the bracket can be installed onto the block in reverse order from the disassembly.   Make sure you get all the screws securely tightened, and all the surfaces sit flush. 

     At this point, you will need to do a "mock-up" install inside the system.  This will involve mounting the block, installing the Heat Exchanger and fan, and cutting your tubing to length.  Once this is done, pull everything back out, and we can start assembling the loop.

     To connect the tubing to the Heat Exchanger and the block, it is vital that you use the included clamps.  Slide the clamp over the tubing, push the tubing onto the barbs until they are flush, and then push the clamp over the barb.   Use a pair of pliers to snap the clamp tight, it should be clamped as far as it can physically go.  Now for my first helpful tip:

     When you clamp your fittings down, make sure the tabs are oriented in such a way as to avoid obstructing your screw holes.  As you can see in the above pic, the mounting hole for the AMD bracket has very little clearance, and a poorly aligned fitting will make mounting the block impossible. 

     Once all the clamps are installed, it is time to fill up the loop with coolant.  In this case, the coolant is 2 oz. of the included fluid mixed with half a liter of distilled water, available at your local grocery store.  To properly fill up the loop, set the Heat Exchanger as high above the pump as you can get, and use the funnel to pour the mixture into the fillport.  You will need to jump-start a power supply to run the pump while you are filling the fluid.  This is best achieved by using a PSU tester to power on the supply, however, you can also start it by using a wire or paper clip to short out the green wire to a black wire on the motherboard connector.  Once the Heat Exchanger is full of coolant, run it for at least an hour, occasionally topping it off.  Once all of the air is out of the loop, seal up the fillport, and arrange the loop in such a manner that is most similar to the way it will be installed in the case.   The above picture roughly represents how the loop will fit in the Water Box. 

     Sharp eyed readers will notice the first change I had to make to the installation.   The 10" neoprene tubes Swiftech provided were not nearly long enough to reach the radiator, so I had to substitute with some regular vinyl tubing.   Swiftech sells 2' lengths on their website, so if the included tubes are insufficient, there are other options. 

     Once everything is setup, I advise running the loop for a solid day or more, with some paper towels underneath so that it is easy to monitor for leaks. 

     Once everything is tested, installing into the case is just a matter of applying the thermal paste and torqueing in 6-8 screws. 

     On a 939 setup, the block mounts with just two screws.   Again, we can see the importance of the orientation of the fittings. 

     Here we can see the second mod I had to make; the standard screws were not long enough for my extra thick case wall, so I utilized some 2" long 6-32 threaded screws with some rubber washers as spacers. 

     Lastly, included is a 12V to 7V adaptor.  If you want to run your fan at full speed, simply plug it in like normal.  Otherwise, you can use the included adaptor instead and reduce the fan speed.  The fan can be installed on your motherboard PWM or using an aftermarket fan controller to help control the fan speed for performance and noise reduction.